Battambang feels like it is off the beaten path even though it is Cambodia’s second largest city. It lies on the western side of the Tonle Sap Lake, which puts it off of the traditional tourist route. Only 4 hours from Siem Reap, but you won’t find the buses filled with tourists crowding the streets here. The pace is much slower, with a lingering colonial feel. Definitely worth a visit if you have the time.
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Bamboo Train
Probably the most famous tourist attraction in Battambang, the bamboo train is a less a train and more of a bamboo platform on top of train wheels, powered by a lawnmower engine. The trains can get up to 40 km/h, which feels faster than it is being so close to the ground. The ride is what makes this experience special as there is no real destination. Just a spot along the tracks about 20 minutes from the start where you can buy some drinks or souvenirs, and then the train will be turned around for the trip back. There is only one track, so when 2 trains going opposite directions meet, the train with the least amount of people will have to be dismantled and set aside for the other train to pass. Then the train will be reassembled and continue on down the track. We were charged $5 each, which is well worth the experience. Don’t forget to tip your driver.
The Killing Cave of Phnom Sampeau
About 45 minutes by tuk-tuk west of Battambang, sits the mountain of Phnom Sampeau. About half way up the mountain lies a Khmer Rouge killing site known as the Killing Caves. Victims were murdered and then had their bodies thrown into the caves. There is now a memorial in the one the caves with some of the victims bones encased in a glass shrine. It’s a very somber place, but worth visiting to bare witness to the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge.
The Bat Cave of Phnom Sampeau
Also located at Phnom Sampeau is the famous Bat Cave. Every night around 5:30 pm over a million bats begin to fly out of the mouth of the cave located at the foot of Phnom Sampeau mountain. The spectacle lasts for 20-30 minutes as the bats stream out to feed for the night. Most people watch from just below the cave where many vendors sell food and beer. Our tuk-tuk driver allowed us to watch for 5 minutes then said he would take us to the best spot to see the bats. We jumped in the tuk-tuk and headed about 5 minutes outside the complex to a rice paddy with expansive views of the countryside. The river of bats was flying directly above us and we were the only tourists there. You could hear their wings flapping as they flew overheard. What an amazing experience!
Eating and Drinking
We really enjoyed walking around the narrow streets and popping into little cafes for a snack or two. One of our favorite spots was Lonely Tree Cafe. It sits above a little boutique on Pub Street. It’s the perfect spot to grab a coffee or some lunch and sit on the balcony watching life move slowly by. The cafe and boutique below use some of the proceeds to help support education, people with disabilities and healthcare. Well worth a visit. After filling your belly, you can wander over to Miss Wong’s on Road No 2 for a signature cocktail. This stylish cocktail bar is the second location of the original in Siem Reap. We loved sitting outside sipping on our drinks as the sun went down. You can also check out the many cafe’s and bars that line Pub Street.
